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Subject: Thai Tales (take 7)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 00:49:12 -0600
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<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<DIV>Back in Prachuapkirikhan I feel like a local.&nbsp; I know how to get around, know where the best food stands are, recognize a few people on the streets.&nbsp; After my un-adventure in the south, it seems like a good place to take a deep breath for a day or so.&nbsp; I hand over my laundry to the hotel staff, knowing that this grounds me for the next 24 hours, and prepare to take it easy.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>First, I take an early walk down to the pier to watch the squid boats unload.&nbsp; I wonder that there are&nbsp;any of the slimy torpedoes left in the sea at all as many as they are taking out.&nbsp; I marvel at the strength of the fishermen, mostly Burmese who are paid a pittance for their exhaustive labours, tossing crate after crate&nbsp;piled high with ice and&nbsp;animals over their heads and into the waiting trucks.&nbsp; They are naked to the waist,&nbsp;deeply tanned, slippery with fish oils and water.&nbsp; Unsmiling, but perfectly coordinated.&nbsp; It is like watching a ballet.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The biggest hauls get packed on ice and driven off, but the smaller ones get passed to a line of local women waiting to take them to shore.&nbsp; There they are laid out on mesh screens to dry in the sun.&nbsp; As I walk down the sea-wall, their thousands of tiny squid eyes stare at me.&nbsp; There are a few dogs around, but no cats.&nbsp; And no seagulls.&nbsp; I think it's the first place I've ever been without them.&nbsp; The women chatter pleasantly to me as I pass, letting me take pictures and answering my gestured questions with body language and laughter.&nbsp; Life is good.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Later on, I hire a tuk-tuk to take me to a neighbouring bay where there is reportedly a very nice beach.&nbsp; Tuk-tuks are odd, open, three-wheeled contraptions that speed&nbsp;through all of Thailand with&nbsp;the distinctive sound that gives them their name.&nbsp; In the city they are notoriously unreliable, but out here they are all that exists in the way of local public transportation.&nbsp; Much to my surprise, the driver takes me right up to the gates of the local air force base and proceeds to check me in before continuing to the bay.&nbsp; Apparently it is located on base.&nbsp; It is an even greater surprise when we stop at the runway to check for landing jets before continuing right across the strip and behind the hangars to a fully-fledged resort town complete with all the trappings (except white skin - I am the only foreigner in sight).&nbsp; I try to imagine all of this existing on a western air force base and have to laugh at the absurdity of it.&nbsp; I spend a lovely afternoon enjoying the warm surf and idyllic islands, both from shore and by chartered boat (this time with a group of Thai girls on an English camp), before catching the last tuk-tuk back to town at&nbsp;sunset.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>At the night market I meet&nbsp;perhaps the only other foreigner in town, a British man now living in Thailand who I met the first time I passed through.&nbsp; We share an enormous meal of&nbsp;breaded muscles and&nbsp;pad-thai (the national dish - spicy noodles) together, then wash it down with fresh squeezed fruit juice at the base of the temple mount.&nbsp; We pass the time in pleasant conversation before I turn in for an early bed-time.&nbsp; I've decided to head north at sunrise, to another national park not far up the coast where there is good hiking and lots of caves to explore.&nbsp; I figure if I start early enough I can&nbsp;see everything and still catch the mid-afternoon train to the ancient capital north of Bangkok for bedtime.&nbsp; It will be a busy day, but I&nbsp;am ready for a bit of excitement&nbsp;again.&nbsp; My laundry is waiting&nbsp;by the door of my room when I arrive.&nbsp; It has been washed and&nbsp;pressed and is waiting to be packed.&nbsp; I go to sleep dreaming of adventure.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </DIV></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr>MSN 8 helps  <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMBENCA/2743??PS=">ELIMINATE E-MAIL VIRUSES. </a> Get 2 months FREE*. </html>
